

The Cam appeared to be one tool off, the bolts were not centered in the slots. The HPFP and crank appeared in to be on the correct teeth.(Keep the jack out of the way when you performing the disassembly.) Do this when starting re assembly – When you need to replace tensioner.This was my first timing belt replacement. I raised the car on wheel chocks on 3 wheels, and jack stand on right passenger side, removed wheel, and wheel well. Let cool off, top up coolant as necessary. Inspect coolant level, top up as required, go for short drive to open thermostat. Rotated the engine through several rotations, confirmed the TDC alignment with pins, and then buttoned everything up.Tightened all the bolts, confirmed the bolt were centered in the slots, adjusted the tensioner.I removed the small lower idler, took the belt off and reinstalled moving the cam one tooth, and matching the crank and HPFP sharpie marks.At this point I realized I needed to loosen the gear hold down bolts.I marked each gear and belt at one tooth with red sharpie. The Cam appeared to be one tooth off, the bolts were not centered in the slots. The HPFP and crank appeared to be on the correct teeth.I installed the belt around the HPFP, large Idler, small top idler, around cam, tensioner, water pump, pulled tight around crank gear, and then installed the small lower idler.I left the crank position Tool, and both pins installed through the whole process.Do loosen these to aid in timing belt installation.Reinstall mount and get the jack out of the way.Give yourself piece of mind that your tensioner is new, and the water pump installation is likely easier without the mount in place. O Minor finagling of engine was necessary to get the bolts removed, bracket installed, then bracket to mount properly aligned, and 2ea bolts installed. Removed / replaced 3ea engine bolts and 2ea mount to bracket bolts.(Keep the jack out of the way when you're performing the disassembly.)

Figure out a better tool before you start the project. O I was glad the Allen key did not shear. The supplied tool is too large diameter, and too long to be installed with engine mount bracket installed. O I used a small Allen key instead of the supplied tool. Note the pin hole, it’s more like a slot. Cannot be removed without removing engine mount bracket.Mine had black junk oozing from weep hole (bearing packing grease?) Is there a coolant plug / drain on the engine block casting?.(The chamfered bolt holes locate the tool on the crank.) Dremel id to remove material to eliminate chamfer.Clearance inside radius to clear crank snout diameter.


